Backpacking in Bolinao

Last week has been very stressful and frustrating so my friend suggested to escape... go out of town. Our destination: Bolinao and Baguio.

It was a Friday afternoon when we finally decided to go backpacking with Bolinao and Baguio as our destinations in mind. With a little research, we have identified which bus lines offer daily trips to Bolinao and Baguio. As we are nearer to Pasay, we opted to go for Five Star which offers direct trips to Bolinao.



We got to the terminal at around 11:30pm but the last air-con bus to Bolinao was already full. The next trip available was an ordinary bus which usually leaves at 12:45am. Quite disappointed, we went to Victory Liner to try our luck instead (with Baguio as another option). To our surprise, the terminal was full of waiting passengers (most of them were already sleeping in the waiting areas and on the floor) and the next trip to Baguio was at 9am!

Disappointed, we have finally decided to go back to Five Star and took the ordinary bus trip instead (ordinary fare Php304). The bus was almost full so we immediately boarded and sat on the two-seater row. Good thing, we have decided to travel at night so we wouldn't have to endure the heat and dust. But then again to our surprise, we had to close the window as the wind was so cold and the breeze was teeming with the aroma of pig poop (with a dash of Pigrolac) on our way from NLEX to Tarlac. :-P But the aroma escapade did not end there as the smell changed into daing (dried fish) as we entered the towns of Pangasinan. I almost couldn't bare the 6-hour agony of inhaling all sorts of smell while sitting in an uncomfortable chair.

Half asleep, I just realized I'm not really into backpacking, commuting and going on a trip without prior preparation and detailed itinerary..... zzz.....zzz.....zzz

I was awakened as the bus suddenly made a sharp turn. We are almost there! I enjoyed the bus 'zigzag-ing' the steep road to Alaminos-Bani; the view of the sun peeking behind the clouds as the sun rises; and the scent of morning dew which always reminds me of the distinct breeze of the country-side.

We arrived at the terminal at 7am where porters and tricycle drivers welcomed us. Jojo (our tricycle driver) was the first to ask us as to where we are headed. With no specific resort in mind, I initially blurted Patar but realized it would be wiser to start our resort hunt from Treasures of Bolinao. He agreed and asked for an additional Php20 making our tricycle fare Php170. It was indeed far and some roads were bumpy. But with the morning air touching my face (yet again with a dash of dust), the 30-minute trike ride was truly relaxing as we passed by local villages, coconut trees, dust-covered plants and of course the sight of rocks protruding from the low-tide waters.

I already knew that Treasures of Bolinao (including Puerto Del Sol & Punta Riviera) was already fully-booked. We inquired still to try our luck or perhaps opt for a day tour (Php385). The resort looks pretty decent but the receptionist was simply rude. With no welcome greetings at all, she was busy doodling on her ledger as she answered my questions.

nipa huts for rent

Annoyed, we got back to Jojo's tricycle. He instantly knew we were out of luck and modestly recommended the nearby public beach resort which offers fan-room cottages. With no choice, we headed to Cabrera's Beach Resort. A guy initially offered a small room (almost like a bathroom) with a thin worn out mattress laid on the floor which costs Php1,500. Crossed-out.

I immediately asked how much the huge nipa huts cost. Another guy blurted Php2,000. I knew this was a much better deal so we checked out one nipa hut. It was pretty decent and spacious which can actually accommodate a family of five.

We have decided to take the nipa hut and bargained for Php1,800 as we will only be staying until 3am and off to Baguio. Charlie agreed and started bringing in the stand fan, semi-thick mattress, sleeping mat, blanket and two pillows. Jojo also volunteered to pick us up at 3am but for a fare of Php250. Fair enough...

Hungry, we changed into our swimsuits and headed for breakfast at Treasures of Bolinao.

to Treasures of Bolinao

Though Cabrera’s Beach Resort is within walking distance to Treasures of Bolinao, the walk along the coastline was so tiring as our foot easily submerged into the loose coral sand.

There were no guards nor resort staff at the shore entrance of Treasures of Bolinao so we easily got into the resort. We have managed our way towards the cottages, pool area and the dining hall which was almost deserted.

As we entered the humid dining hall, the air-con was off but there were a few people at the tables. We went back outside and decided to take a sit at the bar counter with the view of the pool. The male resort staff immediately attended to us and asked for orders. We asked for a menu and he said they only have longganisa, hotdog and daing na bangus for breakfast. Disappointed, we ordered for longganisa and daing na bangus which cost Php150 each with coffee and Milo Winston cigarette stocks at the bar area as we amusingly watched them. They were completely undecided as to where they would best place the cigarette display. How ironic? The resort restaurant has no menu but they offer a wide array of cigarettes.

While waiting, we noticed another group of people silently complaining as they waited for their food to arrive. Another family also annoyed with the few food choices, also ordered food and had followed-up again after a couple of minutes. With my Milo half-filled, I followed-up again with the same male resort staff and he said to wait for another 10 minutes. And so we waited...

After 45 minutes, trays of food finally arrived. Salivating, I followed every plate but none of them landed on our table. I followed-up again with another female staff and she went to the kitchen to check on our orders. She went back telling us that they had been having problems in the kitchen and could not prepare our food. Furious, we immediately left after paying for our drinks and headed back to the shore as I binged on Pringles and Mine Shine Milk Tea.

It was past 8am when we started to take a swim and snorkel in the low-tide shores of Patar white beach. The water was so clear and rich in marine life. I totally forgot how mad and hungry I was as my friend and I alternately swam. It was already past 1pm when we felt hungry and finally decided to grab something to eat.

After scouting the area, we were left with nothing filling to eat but cups of noodles, burger buns, a can of sardines and a liter of soda. Though full, I can’t help but stare at the people around us feasting on grilled pork, eggplants and green mango salad. Anyway, after eating, we have decided to take a nap first and catch the sunset for another swim.

It was already 6pm when my friend woke me up. I immediately dozed off in Charlie’s mattress under the ventilated nipa hut. It was a well-rested nap after enduring the 6-hour agonizing trip and delayed breakfast.

We have decided to go around and look for a restaurant or carinderia for dinner. We walked and searched but found nothing. We even asked a local and she said there were no restaurants in the area just convenience stores that can offer to cook eggs and sautéed corned beef or sardines. Huhuhu... :-( We ended our quest as it was getting dark and we went back to the stretch of convenience stores looking for canned tuna or corned beef. Preoccupied, I jerked as my friend tugged me to a store with three lined-up cooking pans. HOME-COOKED MEALS!

Our ordeal ended that day as we feasted on dinuguan and sautéed innards. We have decided not to go to Baguio and just enjoy the rest of the following morning snorkeling and then leave at 12nn to Manila.

Despite the series of unfortunate events, I'm happy I have experienced and enjoyed these adventures in Bolinao. It isn't something I would plan to go back to but I would still definitely come back given the opportunity. The snorkeling experience may not be as wonderful as Bohol but it was worth it.

 I would like to see more improvements in this humble town but not to an extent where it would be exploited by greed and capitalism. Dominated by locals, Bolinao may not be a tourist-friendly destination but I think it would be better to leave it that way...where its locals get to keep this piece of haven to themselves, where they can accommodate and earn from tourists without taking advantage of them, and by seemingly being happy and satisfied with their simple way of life.

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